Italian Wine History

Theoretical Chapter — Italian Wine Scholar
"3,000 years of viticultural civilization"
3000+ Years Etruscans Magna Graecia Roman Empire DOC 1963

Overview

49.8M
hl Production (#1)
21.9M
hl Exports (#1)
€7.8B
Export Value (#2)
718K
ha Vineyard (#4)

The Story of Italian Wine

The history of the vine in Italy is inextricably tied to the story of Italian civilization. Vines were cultivated by indigenous populations throughout Italy prior to 1000 BCE, including the Rhaeti, Salassi, and Liguri in the northwest; the Veneti in the northeast; the Piceni in central Italy; the Samnites in the south; and the Nuragic people of Sardegna.

Key civilizations: Phoenicians promoted viticulture in western Mediterranean. Etruscans taught northern/central tribes. Greeks developed southern Italy (Magna Graecia). Romans spread wine culture throughout Europe.

Key Historical Periods

PeriodDatesSignificance
Indigenous TribesPre-1000 BCEFirst vine cultivation
Etruscan Era8th-6th c. BCEAlberata training, wine trade
Greek Colonization8th-6th c. BCEMagna Graecia, bush vines
Roman Republic/Empire4th c. BCE - 476 CEFirst grands crus, expansion
Middle Ages476 - 1400sMonks preserve wine culture
Renaissance1300s - 1600sMaritime Republics, trade
Risorgimento1815 - 1870Unification of Italy
Modern Era1963 - PresentDOC system, quality revolution

Ancient Era

The Etruscans
Peak: 6th Century BCE

The Etruscan civilization developed in modern-day Toscana and Umbria prior to the 8th century BCE. At their peak, they occupied central/southern Italy and northern areas along the Po River (parts of Lombardia, Veneto, Piemonte, Emilia-Romagna).

Key Contributions

  • Most advanced civilization of their time within Italian territory
  • Learned from Phoenicians, then taught northern/central tribes
  • Domesticated wild vines and trained them high using trees (alberata or vite maritata all'albero)
  • Developed flourishing wine trade as early as 7th century BCE
  • Exported wines to southern France and Spain
Alberata Aversana: Ancient Etruscan practice of training vines up trees still found today in Campania's Aversa DOC, where Asprinio grapes are trained using poplar and elm trees.
The Greeks (Magna Graecia)
8th - 6th Century BCE

Greek settlers arrived on southern Italian coasts and founded important cities in modern-day Sicilia, Campania, Calabria, Basilicata, and Puglia. Romans called these territories Magna Graecia (Greater Greece).

Key Contributions

  • Brought grape varieties from Greece
  • Introduced head training (bush vines) - unfamiliar to locals
  • Advanced viticulture and winemaking in the south
  • Wine acquired cult status linked to Dionysus (later Bacchus)
  • Turned wine into essential economic commodity

Division of Influence

Etruscans = Northern and Central Italy advancement
Greeks = Southern Italy advancement (Magna Graecia)

Roman Era

Rise of Rome

Beginning in the 4th century BCE, the Roman Republic became the major power on the Italian Peninsula. By the 3rd century BCE, Roma dominated almost all of it. In 42 BCE, the entire territory was granted Roman citizenship—for the first time, Italy was united.

Roman Viticultural Advances

  • Adopted best techniques from both Etruscans and Greeks
  • Refined vine training and pruning to levels that remained in use for centuries
  • Wines were sweet, alcoholic, diluted with water
  • Flavored with sea water, resin, herbs, spices, honey

Important Roman Authors

AuthorContribution
ColumellaDe re rustica - recommended ideal soils and areas for each variety
Cato the ElderAgricultural treatises on viticulture
Pliny the ElderNatural history including wine descriptions
Horace & VirgiliusLiterary accounts of wines and practices
Columella's influence: His knowledge formed the basis of viticultural practices adopted throughout Europe until the 17th century.

Famous Roman Wines (First "Grands Crus")

  • Caecubum — Lazio (white)
  • Falernum — Campania (white)
  • Mamertinum — Sicilia (white)
  • Rhaeticum (Retico) — Veneto around Verona (modern Valpolicella)
  • Pucinum — Friuli Venezia Giulia
Key Roman Timeline
49 BCE — Julius Caesar

Assumed power as dictator, ending 500-year Roman Republic.

27 BCE — Augustus

Octavius became first Emperor. Roma was largest city in world.

92 CE — Domitian's Edict

Forbade planting new vines in Italy due to overproduction and wheat scarcity.

117 CE — Empire Peak

Roman Empire at greatest extent under Trajan.

330 CE — Constantinople

Constantine established new capital, weakening Roma's importance.

395 CE — Empire Split

Western and Eastern Roman Empires after Theodosius's death.

476 CE — Fall of Western Empire

Germanic invasions ended Western Roman Empire.

Monte Testaccio

Roma's famous trash heap—115 ft/35 m high, covering nearly 4.9 ac/2 ha—contains remains of over 50 million amphoras. These were discarded because olive oil residue made them unsuitable for refilling or recycling.

Medieval Era

The Dark Ages

The fall of the Western Roman Empire (476 CE) marked the beginning of the Dark Ages. Wine production continued but the drive for quality faded with Roman society. Monks became shepherds of the vine, preserving wine culture for sacramental, medicinal purposes and as a caloric source.

Wine storage shift: During this period, wine storage shifted from terracotta amphoras to wooden barrels. Barrels were not airtight, so wine quality and longevity declined significantly.
Germanic Invasions & Political Division
533 CE — Ostrogoths Defeated

Emperor Justinian conquered Italy but wars left country devastated.

568 CE — Lombard Invasion

Lombards settled and sought to rule entire peninsula.

756 CE — Papal States Formed

Franks defended pope; Lazio, Marche, Umbria, part of Emilia-Romagna became Papal States.

774 CE — Charlemagne

Defeated Lombards, absorbed their northern territories.

800 CE — Holy Roman Empire

Pope crowned Charlemagne as Holy Roman Emperor at St. Peter's Basilica.

1130 CE — Kingdom of Sicily

Normans united southern peninsula as expanded Kingdom of Sicily.

Rise of the Comuni

After Charlemagne's death (814 CE), towns and cities in northern/central Italy acquired increasing independence. The comuni (municipalities) became the typical form of governmental power, evolving into city-states.

Important City-States

  • Milano, Bologna, Parma, Firenze — Extended power beyond city limits
  • Venezia, Genova, Pisa — Maritime Republics controlling Mediterranean trade
Mezzadria: Medieval sharecropping system where landowners took half of each year's crop. Landowners made wine for resale; farmers kept their portion for consumption. System lasted until 1960s.

First Important Documents

  • 14th century: Pier de Crescenzi wrote first important post-Roman text on vines and wine
  • 14th century: First mentions of Nebbiolo and Garganega
  • 15th century: Records of Cinque Terre, Aglianico, Aleatico, Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Sangiovese di Romagna

Renaissance & Early Modern

The Rinascimento

For more than 200 years (late 13th to 16th century), Italy was the center of the Rinascimento (Italian Renaissance)—the cultural movement that preceded the European Renaissance. It began in Firenze, expanded throughout Italy, then spread to Europe.

The Signorie

The comuni gradually fell under control of powerful families, morphing into signorie (lordships).

FamilyCity
MediciFirenze (Florence)
SforzaMilano (Milan)
GonzagaMantova (Mantua)
ViscontiMilano (earlier)

Maritime Republics

Throughout the 14th century, coastal cities became important trade and military centers. Venezia eventually obtained supremacy over the others.

  • Venezia (Venice) — Ultimate victor, controlled Mediterranean trade
  • Genova (Genoa) — Major competitor
  • Pisa — Earlier power
Trade challenge: Italy's multitude of political entities made domestic trade impractical due to duties, tolls, and different units of measure. Many regions focused on export markets instead.

Economic Decline

When trade with the Americas began in 1492, Mediterranean routes lost importance. The entire peninsula entered deep economic crisis, particularly severe in the south.

Corks and glass bottles became common in France and Germany during 17th-18th centuries, but not widespread in Italy (except Piemonte) until the 19th century—no incentive to improve with minimal exports.

Modern Era

Il Risorgimento (1815-1870)

Italy's political and civil rebirth led to unification. Key figures:

  • Vittorio Emanuele II — King of Sardinia
  • Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour — Prime Minister
  • Giuseppe Garibaldi — General
  • Cristina di Belgiojosa — Journalist/activist
1720 — Kingdom of Sardinia

Duchy of Savoy obtained Sardegna, becoming major political power.

1861 — Kingdom of Italy

Most of peninsula unified under Vittorio Emanuele II.

1870 — Near-Complete Unification

Only Trentino-Alto Adige and part of Friuli Venezia Giulia remained outside.

Vineyard Devastation

  • Oidium (powdery mildew) — Late 19th century
  • Phylloxera — First noticed in Lombardia 1875, identified 1879
  • Peronospora (downy mildew) — Early 20th century
Phylloxera spread: Gradually affected all of Italy, reaching some regions (Campania) as late as 1920s-1930s. Many indigenous varieties were replaced with international varieties, particularly in Veneto, Trentino, FVG. Many native grapes lost forever.

20th Century

1915 — WWI

Italy joined Allies; gained Trentino, Alto Adige, remaining FVG from Austria-Hungary.

1940s — WWII & Republic

Italy declared republic after war; rapid reconstruction and economic boom (1950s-60s).

1963 — DOC Legislation

Denominazione di Origine Controllata approved to protect wine origins.

1966 — First DOC

Vernaccia di San Gimignano became first approved DOC.

1986 — Methanol Scandal

12 growers arrested for adulterating wines; led to tighter laws and quality shift.

Wine Revolution Pioneers

  • Giacomo Tachis — Shaped modern red winemaking in Toscana
  • Mario Schiopetto — Innovative white wines in FVG
  • Giorgio Lungarotti — Modern viticulture in Umbria
  • Antonio Mastroberardino — Foundation for Campania
1960s innovations: First single-vineyard (vigna) wines in Barolo; Sassicaia released (Super Tuscans); abolition of mezzadria; introduction of DOC regulations.

Italy Today

#1 in wine production (49.8M hl, 19.3% world)
#1 in export volume (21.9M hl, 20.5% world)
#2 in export value (€7.8B, 20.8% world)
#4 in vineyard area (718,000 ha, 9.9% world)
G7 member, 4th largest European economy, EU founding member.

Exam Flags

Key facts for the Italian Wine Scholar examination:

01 Pre-1000 BCE: Indigenous tribes (Rhaeti, Salassi, Liguri, Veneti, Piceni, Samnites, Nuragic) cultivated vines.
02 Phoenicians: Promoted viticulture throughout western Mediterranean including Sicilia and Sardegna.
03 Etruscans (8th-6th c. BCE): Most advanced Italian civilization; taught northern/central tribes; developed alberata training.
04 Alberata/Vite maritata: Training vines up trees; still practiced in Aversa DOC (Asprinio on poplar/elm).
05 Greeks - Magna Graecia: Southern Italy (Sicilia, Campania, Calabria, Basilicata, Puglia); introduced bush vine training.
06 Dionysus/Bacchus: Greek wine god adopted by Romans.
07 42 BCE: Entire Italian territory granted Roman citizenship—first unification.
08 Roman wine style: Sweet, alcoholic, diluted with water, flavored with sea water, resin, herbs, spices, honey.
09 Columella: Author of De re rustica; recommended soils/areas for each variety; influenced European practices until 17th century.
10 First grands crus: Caecubum (Lazio), Falernum (Campania), Mamertinum (Sicilia), Rhaeticum (Veneto), Pucinum (FVG).
11 92 CE - Domitian's Edict: Forbade planting new vines due to overproduction and wheat scarcity.
12 476 CE: Fall of Western Roman Empire; beginning of Dark Ages.
13 Monks: Preserved wine culture during Dark Ages for sacramental, medicinal purposes, and calories.
14 Storage shift: Amphoras to wooden barrels during Middle Ages; barrels not airtight, quality declined.
15 756 CE: Papal States formed (Lazio, Marche, Umbria, part of Emilia-Romagna); lasted until 1870.
16 800 CE: Charlemagne crowned Holy Roman Emperor at St. Peter's Basilica.
17 Comuni: City-states that emerged in northern/central Italy after Charlemagne's death (814 CE).
18 Mezzadria: Medieval sharecropping—landowner took half of crop. Abolished in 1960s.
19 14th century: Pier de Crescenzi's first important post-Roman viticultural text; first mentions of Nebbiolo, Garganega.
20 Maritime Republics: Venezia, Genova, Pisa controlled Mediterranean trade; Venezia achieved supremacy.
21 Signorie families: Medici (Firenze), Sforza (Milano), Gonzaga (Mantova).
22 1492: Americas trade began; Mediterranean routes declined; Italian economic crisis.
23 1720: Duchy of Savoy obtained Sardegna, becoming Kingdom of Sardinia—major power.
24 Il Risorgimento (1815-1870): Unification movement led by Vittorio Emanuele II, Cavour, Garibaldi.
25 1875-1879: Phylloxera first noticed in Lombardia (1875), identified (1879); reached Campania by 1920s-30s.
26 Post-phylloxera: Many indigenous varieties replaced with international grapes (esp. Veneto, Trentino, FVG). Many native grapes lost forever.
27 1963: DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) legislation approved.
28 1966: Vernaccia di San Gimignano = first DOC approved.
29 1986 Methanol Scandal: 12 growers arrested; led to tighter food safety laws and quality shift.
30 Wine pioneers: Giacomo Tachis (Toscana reds), Mario Schiopetto (FVG whites), Lungarotti (Umbria), Mastroberardino (Campania).