Overview
Regional Identity
Gascony is the name of a former French province as well as a large cultural entity occupying the southwestern corner of France. It includes much of the region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine and at least half of the region of Occitanie. The winegrowing area known as Les Vins de Sud-Ouest (the wines of South-West) approximately equates to this physical territory.
Gascony
The word "Gascon" is derived from the same root as the word "Basque": Vascones. Basque culture dominated Gascony for most of its history. The Gascon dialect is a variation of Occitan that has been heavily influenced by the Basque language.
This culture gave birth to such famous literary works as The Three Musketeers and Cyrano de Bergerac. Its culinary claim to fame is duck, goose, foie gras, chestnuts, truffles, wine and Armagnac.
Key Characteristics
- The Sud-Ouest wine region lacks cohesion and homogeneity; appellations are small and widely scattered
- Appellations rarely share common ground in terms of topography, grape varieties and wine styles
- Represents some of France's last vinous frontiers — largely undiscovered on a global scale
- Two grapes and two appellations are gaining traction: Côt (Malbec) of Cahors and Tannat of Madiran
The Three Sub-Regions
| Sub-Region | Key Features |
|---|---|
| Dordogne/Bergerac | Bordeaux-style varieties; sweet wines (Monbazillac) |
| Garonne, Tarn and Lot | Cahors (Côt), Gaillac, Fronton (Négrette) |
| Pyrenees | Tannat (Madiran), Manseng grapes (Jurançon), Basque wines (Irouléguy) |
Plantings by Grape Variety (2014)
| Variety | % of Plantings |
|---|---|
| Merlot | 24% |
| Gros Manseng | 14% |
| Colombard | 13% |
| Ugni Blanc | 9% |
| Tannat | 7% |
| Sauvignon Blanc | 6% |
| Côt (Malbec) | 6% |
| Sémillon | 6% |
| Cabernet Sauvignon | 6% |
| Cabernet Franc | 5% |
| Other | 4% |
Viticultural History
Timeline
The South-West region of France was first cultivated by the Romans. Viticulture was established here before Bordeaux was planted to the vine!
During the Middle Ages, Gascony was incorporated into the territory of Aquitaine and was therefore under English rule for some 300 years. Wines from South-West France would travel via a network of rivers to the port of Bordeaux to be sent on English merchant ships to markets along the Atlantic coast.
Those who controlled river traffic and ports also controlled commerce. As Bordeaux's own wine production grew, they soon considered wines from Sud-Ouest as serious competition. Bordeaux wine merchants mandated that no wines from Sud-Ouest could be sold until all of the wines of Bordeaux had been sent to their markets. This legislation quickly put an end to a viable wine industry in Sud-Ouest.
Although the region began to rebound, there was a general economic collapse after the onset of vineyard scourges of the 1800s and the ensuing World Wars.
The wines of South-West France are still overshadowed by the power and prestige of Bordeaux. It is only in the 21st century that the region is finally beginning to re-enter the world marketplace. Leading producers are clear advocates for their appellations, and co-operatives have united many growers under a collective banner.
The Vinovalie Co-operative
With an eye on sustaining forward momentum, the Vinovalie co-operative (itself an amalgamation of four co-operatives) is striving to entice and train people to work in the wine industry. Vinovalie has also partnered with 11 other co-operatives around France to collectively promote all of their top cuvées under the Marques & Coop umbrella. Cave de Fronton is now the leading producer of rosé in Sud-Ouest.
Location & Climate
Boundaries
- North: Bordeaux
- South: The Pyrenees (Spanish border)
- West: The Atlantic Ocean
- East: The Massif Central
The conglomerate of tiny sub-regions collectively known as South-West France is scattered over a large territory encompassing two French regions (Nouvelle-Aquitaine and Occitanie).
Climate
Overall: Continental climate, but the appellations are influenced by the topographical features that are in closest proximity to them.
| Sub-Region | Climatic Influences |
|---|---|
| Dordogne/Bergerac | Maritime influences with slightly warmer temperatures and more sun than Bordeaux |
| Garonne, Tarn & Lot | Maritime and Mediterranean influences; exact location of each AOC determines which weather pattern dominates |
| Pyrenean Foothills | Some maritime influences but impacted by the Pyrenees; benefits from rain shadow, foehn winds, and cool air masses |
Key Rivers
Multiple rivers cross the region. Of special importance are:
- Dordogne
- Garonne
- Tarn
- Lot
- Gers
- Adour
Geology, Topography & Soils
The majority of Sud-Ouest vineyards are located on the rolling hills and river terraces of the Aquitaine Basin. The soil types are strikingly different yet largely sedimentary.
Major Soil Types
Limestone
Found throughout the region, particularly on the Causses (limestone plateaus) of Cahors.
Marls
Composed of clay, sand and limestone; common in many appellations.
Alluvial River Terraces
Ancient deposits from various periods of glacial melt; largely comprised of pebbles, gravels, quartz and sand.
Wind-blown Loess
Fine, silty soil deposited by wind during glacial periods.
Flysch
Thin beds of shale or marl interspersed with sandstone.
Shale, Granite & Mica Schist
Found in the foothills of the Massif Central (Entraygues-Le Fel, Estaing, Marcillac).
Notable Soil Terms
| Term | Description | Where Found |
|---|---|---|
| Boulbènes | Sandy clays | Fronton, Buzet, Brulhois |
| Rougiers | Iron-rich clay-limestone soils | Marcillac |
| Poudingues | Sandy-clays studded with galets (pebbles) | Jurançon |
Grape Varieties
South-West France was and is a rural area well-traversed by pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. This area became both a crossroad and a crucible, not only of people but of grapes as well.
Over 300 different grape varieties have been identified in South-West France; 120 of these are indigenous. Native and imported varieties were planted side by side in pre-phylloxera vineyards.
Grape Heritage
Birthplace of International Varieties
Cabernet Franc (from Spanish Basque Country) crossed with Sud-Ouest native Magdeleine Noire des Charentes to produce Merlot. Sud-Ouest native Prunelard crossed with Magdeleine Noire des Charentes to produce Côt. Cabernet Franc crossed with Gros Cabernet (a local cross) to produce Carmenère. Native Tannat has been adopted by Uruguay.
Key White Grapes
- Grown on both sides of the Pyrenees
- Used for dry wines of Jurançon, Saint-Mont and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh
- Brings freshness to the blend
- Can develop high sugar levels while still maintaining acidity
- Incorporated into sweet wines of Jurançon and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh
- Popular for dry or sweet white wines in Gaillac
- Saint-Côme and Fel are secondary grapes used for dry whites in the Lot River area
- Primary white grape in Gaillac
- Used for dry, sweet, and sparkling wines
- Used in Gaillac for dry and sweet white wines
- Also used for sparkling wines made by both ancestrale and traditional methods
Important for dry and sweet whites: Camaralet, Lauzet, Courbu, Petit Courbu, Baroque, Arrufiac and Raffiat.
Key Red Grapes
- Used as a primary or secondary grape throughout the Garonne, Tarn and Lot sub-region
- Côt was the most-planted grape in Sud-Ouest before phylloxera
- The signature grape of Cahors
- Also important in Bordeaux and internationally known as Malbec (Argentina)
- Native to the Adour River Basin
- The main grape in Madiran and the red wines of Saint-Mont
- Late-ripening with tight clusters high in sugar and tannin
- Has been adopted by Uruguay
- Primary red grape in Gaillac (where it's known as Braucol)
- Also important in Marcillac, Entraygues-Le Fel, and Estaing
- A versatile grape cultivated in Fronton as far back as can be remembered
- Can produce both fruity red and rosé wines to enjoy in their youth as well as substantial wines capable of aging
- Legend states it was brought from Cyprus by the Knights Templar
- Primary red grape in Gaillac
- Used in rosés and tannic reds
Bordeaux Varieties in Sud-Ouest
The Dordogne/Bergerac sub-region uses Bordeaux varieties extensively:
- White: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle
- Red: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
Viticulture
Historical Context
The vineyard landscape in Sud-Ouest has changed dramatically over the past 70 years. In the 1950s and 1960s, many hybrids (a carry-over from phylloxera) were still in the ground, and most of the men who tended them were well into their senior years.
Agricultural consultants were switching farmers over to corn, and at the same time, poorly advising younger-generation vignerons on how to replace these hybrids with other grape varieties. It took time to undo many mistakes and reclaim the great terroirs, long abandoned after World Wars and economic hardship, but the wine industry has begun to rebound qualitatively.
Modern Focus
- Growing focus on native grapes which are capable of handling a warming world
- Producers are concentrating on a conversion to organic farming practices and/or a reduction in the amount of chemicals used during the growing season
- This initiative has been catapulted to the forefront by industry leaders
Challenges
- Appellations are still small and remote
- Vineyards share the landscape with an increasingly popular crop: corn
- Demand for foie gras (and the classic combination of dessert wine and duck liver) is in decline
- Appellations that make sweet wine (Jurançon, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh) are challenged to "go dry" as demand for sweet wine decreases
Old Vines
Saint-Mont's Vine Heritage
The Saint-Mont region lays claim to a significant legacy of old vines. The average vine age ranges between 30-50 years, while some plantings are over 150 years old!
Winemaking
General Styles
- Most of the region's whites are dry
- Sweet wines may be made in either botrytized or late-harvest styles
- Sparkling whites may be made by ancestrale and traditional methods
- All reds and rosés are dry and still
- Some reds are made as vin primeur
Micro-Oxygenation
A Sud-Ouest Innovation
One of the greatest recent advancements in red wine production originated in South-West France: micro-oxygenation. This technique was introduced by Patrick Ducournau in 1991 while working in Madiran with the native Sud-Ouest grape Tannat.
Problems had started with the advent of stainless steel tanks. Tannat became reductive or needed so much racking to avoid this flaw that it became lifeless, dry and dull. Wines were tired, overly tannic and/or reductive.
The advent of micro-oxygenation softened the tannins and eliminated the reduction issues.
How Micro-Oxygenation Works
- Very small quantities of oxygen are bubbled through a vat of fermenting wine to keep yeast healthy and avoid stuck fermentations
- Small quantities of oxygen can be bubbled through a vat of finished wine to polymerize tannins, clarify and stabilize
Sweet Wine Production
Passerillage
- Grapes undergo passerillage (raisining on the vine) rather than botrytis infection
- Used in Jurançon and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh
- Hand harvest follows in successive passes
Botrytis
- Used in Monbazillac, Saussignac, and some Gaillac sweet wines
- SGN (Sélection de Grains Nobles) wines are usually made from botrytized grapes
Sparkling Wine in Gaillac
| Style | Method |
|---|---|
| Gaillac Méthode Ancestrale | Sparkling wine made with Mauzac Blanc and/or Rose; can be brut, demi-sec or doux (1-8% or 10-80 g/l RS) |
| Traditional Method | Made primarily with Len de l'El and Mauzac, aged on lees for at least nine months; finished with less than 5% (50 g/l) RS |
| Blanc Sec Perlé | An attractively "prickly" wine; CO₂ captured during malolactic conversion or added after; uses the same primary white varieties |
The Sub-Regions of Sud-Ouest
The Dordogne/Bergerac sub-region lies up-river from Sainte-Foy Côtes de Bordeaux and Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux and likewise flanks the Dordogne River. The sub-region could be considered a more inland extension of the Bordeaux AOCs, yet physiographically the appellations lie on the uplands comprising the southwestern flanks of the Massif Central.
The area is part of the historical and cultural region known as Périgord, and several dialects of Occitan are spoken here.
Climate
- Continental climate with some oceanic influence from the Atlantic (60 mi/100 km away)
- Average temperatures are warm, with hot summers and short winters
- Longer hang times lead to dusty, slightly rustic tannins in the finished wines
Soils
Dominated by clay and limestone. Pécharmant has red clay, flint and gravels.
Key Grapes
- White: Sauvignon Blanc (mainstay for dry), Sémillon (primary for sweet)
- Red: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Côt
The Tarn and Lot rivers are tributaries of the Garonne and have long transported eroded materials from the Causses and the Massif Central downriver. Some of the vineyards clustered around the Lot River — Entraygues-Le Fel, Estaing and Marcillac — are at significant elevation in the foothills of the Massif Central.
The Garonne, Tarn and Lot sub-region lies between Bordeaux and Languedoc. Although winters are cold here, the area receives ample sunshine and significant summer warmth. Grapes ripen fully. Autumns are characterized by warm southerly winds, which mitigate humidity and reduce disease pressure.
Key Appellations by River
| River | Appellations |
|---|---|
| Garonne | Côtes du Marmandais, Buzet, Brulhois, Saint-Sardos |
| Tarn | Fronton, Gaillac, Côtes de Millau |
| Lot | Cahors, Coteaux du Quercy, Entraygues-Le Fel, Estaing, Marcillac |
Key Grapes
- White: Len de l'El, Mauzac
- Red: Côt (signature of Cahors), Fer Servadou (Braucol), Négrette (Fronton), Duras
The Pyrenees sub-region is aptly named; the mountain chain looms large on the southern horizon. All appellations within it benefit from the warm, dry foehn winds that crest the Pyrenees, chase away humidity and bring clear skies.
All the appellations lie alongside rivers whose headwaters originate in the Pyrenees:
- The Nive River cuts through Irouléguy
- Béarn and Jurançon lie between the Gave d'Oloron and the Gave de Pau
- Tursan, Saint-Mont and Madiran/Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh cluster around the Adour
Here, Gascony transitions into French Basque Country, and both grapes and cuisine take a decidedly exotic twist.
Key Grapes
- White: Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, Courbu, Petit Courbu, Arrufiac, Raffiat de Moncade
- Red: Tannat (signature of Madiran), Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fer Servadou
Key Appellations
White: Sauvignon Blanc [P] Sémillon [P] Muscadelle [S]
Red: Cabernet Sauvignon [P] Merlot [P] Cabernet Franc [P] Côt [S]
All wines must be blends of at least two varieties and contain at least 50% of the primary varieties.
White: Sauvignon Blanc [P] Sémillon [P] Muscadelle [S]
Monbazillac is the largest dessert wine appellation by size and volume in France. As a general rule, the wines are sweeter than those from Sauternes. Grapes must be hand harvested and may be late-harvest and/or botrytized. SGN wines are usually made from botrytized grapes. Both wines must use 80% of the primary varieties and possess a minimum alcohol of 12%.
Red: Cabernet Sauvignon [P] Merlot [P] Cabernet Franc [P] Côt [P]
Reds must contain at least three of the four authorized grape varieties, and no one variety can be more than 65% of the blend.
Red: Côt [P] Merlot [S] Tannat [S]
Cahors focuses on Côt, also locally referred to as Auxerrois. The vines are planted on the limestone plateaus of the Causses or on gravelly slopes and river terraces. Neither Cabernet Sauvignon nor Cabernet Franc are authorized here even though the appellation is just 100 mi/160 km from Bordeaux. Wines must contain a minimum of 70% Côt.
Despite being equidistant from both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, the climate here is dry, and the grapes achieve full phenolic ripeness. The wines are deeply pigmented, concentrated and cellar-worthy. In fact, Cahors' inky "black wines" have long had their champions. They were favored by King Henry II of England, Emperor Peter I of Russia and Pope John XXII.
White: Len de l'El [P] Mauzac Blanc [P] Muscadelle [P]
Rose/Gris: Mauzac Rose [P]
Red: Duras [P] Fer Servadou [P] Syrah [S]
This growing region produces distinctive wines from non-mainstream grape varieties in a diverse array of styles. Soils are varied. There is clay, limestone, sand, flint and gravelly alluviums. Gaillac makes the widest range of wine styles in all of South-West France.
Gaillac red primeur is made by semi-carbonic maceration from 100% Gamay and is released on the third Thursday of November.
Red: Négrette [P] Cabernet Sauvignon [S] Cabernet Franc [S] Côt [S] Fer Servadou [S] Syrah [S]
Fronton lies just north of Toulouse. The reds and rosés must contain at least 40% Négrette but can be 100% if the producer so chooses. Although current DNA research intimates that Négrette is a local variety, legend states that it was brought to the area from Cyprus by the Knights Templar. Production is largely red.
Red: Fer Servadou [P]
Marcillac lies a short 6 mi/10 km to the southwest of Estaing. The terraced vineyards are positioned on the slopes of the Valley of Marcillac on iron-rich clay-limestone soils known as rougiers between 985-1,970 ft/300-600 m in elevation. The wines must be 80-100% Fer Servadou.
Red: Tannat [P] Cabernet Franc [S] Cabernet Sauvignon [S] Fer Servadou [S]
Madiran is not only a winegrowing area, it is also a village. Both lie deep within Gascony on the left bank of the Adour River. The appellation is equidistant from the Atlantic and the Pyrenees (approximately 60 mi/100 km). The weather is warm and dry during the growing season, but ample rain falls in winter and spring. The warm dry foehn air mass generated by the rain-shadow effect of the Pyrenees helps to mitigate disease pressure. Soils are pebble-studded limestone-rich clays and silts; many contain iron.
The wines must contain more than 50% Tannat. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Fer Servadou can complete the blend. Here, Fer Servadou goes by the local name "Pinenc." Cabernet Franc bears the local nickname of "Bouchy." These are deeply tannic, well-structured bottlings that typically require time in the cellar to soften and mellow.
White: Gros Manseng [P] Petit Manseng [P] Courbu [P] Petit Courbu [P] Arrufiac [S]
The Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and Madiran AOCs cover the same geographical area, but Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh is for whites only. Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec (dry white) must contain at least two varieties, one of which must be a primary one. Sweet wines are made by passerillage (raisining on the vine), not by botrytis infection.
White: Gros Manseng [P] Petit Manseng [P] Camaralet [S] Courbu [S] Lauzet [S] Petit Courbu [S]
The terrain gets quite steep here. Soils are sandy-clays studded with galets (known locally as poudingues) washed down from the Pyrenees. The climate is influenced by altitude, Atlantic precipitation, the warm dry foehn winds coming over the Pyrenees and a Mediterranean sun.
Jurançon Sec is a dry white. Sec must appear on the label so that consumers know there is no residual sugar. Jurançon (without "Sec") is sweet. Grapes undergo passerillage and are hand harvested in late October (into November). Wine law mandates at least two passes in the vineyard.
Jurançon Vendanges Tardives (late-harvest) must be crafted from Petit Manseng and/or Gros Manseng only. Grapes are not botrytized and are picked with a minimum of two passes. Harvest cannot begin until November 2nd. Finished wines must contain at least 5.5% (55 g/l) RS and cannot be released for sale until June 15th of the second year after the harvest.
White: Gros Manseng [P] Petit Manseng [P] Courbu [P] Petit Courbu [P]
Red: Cabernet Franc [P] Tannat [P] Cabernet Sauvignon [S]
The vineyards of Irouléguy are found on steep or terraced slopes sheltered from the north and west winds. Nonetheless, the Pyrenees and elevation play their parts; grapes are harvested with vibrant acidity. Autumns are mild and extended thanks to warm foehn winds. Despite being only 25 mi/40 km from the Atlantic, rainfall is winter-dominant. Three distinct soil types are found here: sandstone, limestone and clay.
Whites must be a blend of at least two varieties. Reds must contain a majority of Tannat and/or Cabernet Franc; Cabernet Sauvignon can complete the blend. Rosés must be made from at least 90% of the primary red varieties; white varieties can complete the blend.
This is the southernmost AOC of South-West France and the only AOC within French Basque country. The majority of wine production is red.
White: Gros Manseng [P] Arrufiac [S] Courbu [S] Petit Courbu [S] Petit Manseng [S]
Red: Tannat [P] Cabernet Sauvignon [P] Fer Servadou [S] Cabernet Franc [S] Merlot [S]
Saint-Mont, like Madiran, is equidistant from the Atlantic and the Pyrenees and experiences very similar weather patterns. It also benefits from the warm, dry foehn winds. The growing area is bisected by the Adour River. The western portion is characterized by sandy soils, whereas the eastern section has a greater preponderance of limestone-rich clays. Vineyards are planted on hillsides to maximize sunlight.
Reds must be at least 60% Tannat, whereas whites must be at least 60% Gros Manseng. Rosés are mandatory blends utilizing at least 70% of the primary red varieties.
White: Chardonnay [P] Colombard [P] Gros Manseng [P] Petit Manseng [P] Sauvignon Blanc [P] Ugni Blanc [P]
Red: Cabernet Franc [P] Cabernet Sauvignon [P] Merlot [P] Tannat [P]
Côtes de Gascogne IGP is one of the most important IGPs in France. It is second in IGP production volume to Pays d'Oc IGP. Approximately 100 million bottles (750,000 hl) are produced annually. Seventy-five percent of production is dry white wine. The balance is sweet white (10%), rosé (8%) and red (7%). Seventy-five percent is exported.
Côtes de Gascogne shares the same zone of production as Armagnac. It covers a territory of nearly 30,000 ac/12,000 ha in size.
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