Overview
Regional Identity
Roussillon is a rugged and wild region. With the exception of its coastal villages and capital, Perpignan, it is sparsely populated. One of its biggest challenges is identity — overshadowed by its neighbor and administrative partner, Languedoc.
Although Roussillon has a strong Catalan culture, a small but significant portion of residents identify as Occitan. Neither language is spoken much anymore, but the distinct legacies remain.
Production Breakdown
| Category | % Production |
|---|---|
| Dry AOC Wine | 40% |
| Dry IGP Wine | 36% |
| VDN AOC Wine | 17% |
| Wine without Appellation | 7% |
Largest Appellations by Volume
- Côtes du Roussillon AOC — Regional dry wine appellation
- Côtes Catalanes IGP — Produced same volume as Côtes du Roussillon in 2019
- Rivesaltes AOC — Largest VDN appellation
Viticultural History
Roussillon has had a long and fractious history. Between the 12th and 17th centuries, it was successively part of the Kingdoms of Aragon, Majorca, Aragon again, and finally the Holy Roman Empire.
Modern Challenges
Roussillon was among the last regions in France to begin temperature-controlled fermentation; new oak barrels are still considered a luxury.
The region is so rural that wild boar are a real problem in remote vineyards. Electric fencing is the only solution, but batteries are stolen and boar knock down fences. These pests poach grapes during droughts when production is already low.
Location & Climate
Location
Roussillon lies within the Pyrénées-Orientales département in the Occitania region. It is bordered by:
- North/Northeast: Languedoc
- South: Spain
- East: Mediterranean Sea
The region is surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges:
- North: Corbières
- West: Pyrenees (with Mount Canigou peak)
- South: Albères Mountains (eastern extension of Pyrenees)
Climate
The climate is Mediterranean and therefore precipitation is winter-dominant. Rainfall has never been plentiful, averaging just 19.5-23.5 in/500-600 mm per year. Summers are prone to drought.
The Principal Winds of Roussillon
Roussillon is always windy and many of its winds have multiple names:
Tramontane Cold, dry north wind — dominant; promotes healthy environment
Marin Warm, humid southeast wind — "enemy of the vigneron"
Cers West/northwest; cold in winter, warm in summer
Le Canigounenc Cold, dry west wind
Le Vent d'Espagne Hot, humid southwest wind
Levant Temperate, beneficial east wind
Grec/Gregal Humid northeast wind; heralds rain
Sirocco Hot, dry wind from Sahara; deposits sand
Geology, Topography & Soils
Geological History
The geological history of Roussillon mirrors that of Languedoc. Both regions experienced the same up-lifting of ancient seabeds and the subsequent erosion and sedimentation brought on by torrential downpours at the close of the last Ice Age.
The major difference is that Roussillon was subjected to much more intense pressure and buckling, hence its more mountainous terrain.
Topography
The Pyrenees extend to the coast, and many of the vineyards line the slopes of their foothills. Others are located at various elevations on thin strips of land between the peaks. Vineyards planted on or near the mountains benefit from cold air masses that descend from the upper reaches during evening hours.
The convoluted landscape captures water, funnels, channels and sometimes intensifies the winds, providing a varied degree of orientations and elevations (up to 1,980 ft/600 m) to temper the fierce heat.
Three Rivers
At lower elevations, three rivers cut through the landscape en route to the Mediterranean:
- Agly — headwaters in Corbières
- Tech — headwaters in Pyrenees
- Têt — headwaters in Pyrenees
The Agly weaves through a geologically diverse series of hills that have proven to be some of the region's most propitious vineyard lands, namely the cru sites of Caramany, Latour-de-France, Lesquerde, and Tautavel.
Soils
Much of the region consists of an iron-rich, sandy, red, water-retaining clay. That said, Roussillon has an enormous diversity of soil types:
Soil Types Found in Roussillon
Limestone, black schist, granite, gneiss, gray schist, galets, sandstone, shale, quartz, yellow clay, marble, and sand.
Grape Varieties
Plantings by Variety (CIVR 2018)
| Grape | % Area | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Grenache (Noir) | 23% | Dry reds, VDNs |
| Syrah | 17% | Dry reds |
| Carignan | 13% | Dry reds |
| Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc | 10% | VDNs |
| Muscat d'Alexandrie | 9% | VDNs |
| Grenache Blanc | 7% | Dry whites, VDNs |
| Macabeu | 6% | Dry whites, VDNs |
| Merlot | 5% | IGP wines |
| Grenache Gris | 4% | Dry whites, VDNs |
| Mourvèdre | 4% | Dry reds |
| Other | 2% | Various |
Grenache Blanc
A main component of many Roussillon dry white wines and the white VDNs.
Other White Varieties
Macabeu, Tourbat (Malvoisie du Roussillon), Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Viognier, Carignan Blanc, Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d'Alexandrie
Grenache Gris
May be used in Roussillon dry white wines and VDNs.
Grenache (Noir)
The mainstay of Roussillon red wines as well as the red VDNs.
Carignan
Forms the historic backbone of red blends in Roussillon. Old-vine Carignan can produce particularly concentrated and high-quality wine. Nowadays, its heartland is in the western Languedoc.
Other Red Varieties
Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, Lledoner Pelut, Counoise
International varieties such as Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown but to a much lesser extent; they are typically used for IGP varietal wines.
Viticulture
Training Systems
Vines were traditionally trained in gobelet or bush-vine fashion. In areas of low rainfall, this system works well on vines with strong upward-growing canes, such as Grenache and Carignan. Vines are trained low to the ground to protect them from the Tramontane wind.
Although this training system requires hand harvesting, it is necessary anyway, as 80% of vineyards are located on slopes.
Planting Density
Planting density is generally around 1,600-2,000 vines per acre (4,000-5,000 per ha). The wide spacing is due to lack of water, but Roussillon's dry and windy climate can be viewed in a positive light.
Winemaking
White Wines
Made by direct press or given short skin contact and are often vinified in barrel.
Rosé Wines
Made via saignée or direct press.
Red Wines
Vinified in the traditional manner after destemming. Carbonic maceration is used for certain grapes; this is especially true for Carignan in order to soften its aggressive tannins. Wines are matured in tank, casks, barrels, or demi-johns for an average of two years.
Dry reds, whites, and rosés may be made in a rancio fashion. These wines have been matured by oxidative methods for at least five years. They turn dark brown or tawny and acquire leathery and gamey flavors.
Fortified red, white, and rosé sweet wines (VDNs) are made in reductive or oxidative styles.
- Mutage may happen after pressing or directly on the marc
- Oxidative-style VDNs may be aged in foudres, barrels, vats, and/or glass bonbonnes
- Reductive styles are fresh and fruity
- Oxidative styles develop complex flavors of dried fruits, nuts, caramel
Dry Wine AOCs
Although all of Roussillon is covered by the Languedoc AOC, less than 2% of Roussillon's AOC wine production was bottled under that appellation in 2019. The regional Côtes du Roussillon AOC is Roussillon's largest by volume.
White [P] Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Tourbat [S] Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Viognier, Carignan Blanc
Rosé/Gris [P] Grenache Gris
Red [P] Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan [S] Cinsaut, Lledoner Pelut
Wines are made in a variety of styles, from youthful and light to more complex and concentrated designed for extended aging. Red wines must be a blend of at least two of the four primary varieties. White wines must be a blend of at least two varieties (often Grenache Blanc and Macabeu).
The zone of production largely centers around the Agly and Têt river valleys. Wines are Grenache-based and must be a blend of at least two grape varieties.
5 DGCs: Caramany, Latour-de-France, Lesquerde, Tautavel, Les Aspres
Four cluster near the Agly and Têt (Caramany, Latour-de-France, Lesquerde, Tautavel). Les Aspres lies south of Perpignan, closer to the Tech River. Each has a slightly different grape focus and blending formula.
White [P] Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Marsanne, Roussanne, Tourbat, Vermentino [S] Carignan Blanc, Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d'Alexandrie
Rosé/Gris [P] Grenache Gris
Red [P] Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan [S] Cinsaut, Counoise
Collioure and Banyuls share the same delimited area: Collioure is the appellation for dry wines; Banyuls is the appellation for VDNs. This is the southernmost appellation in mainland France.
Maury's vineyards nestle on the slopes beneath the ancient ruins of Quéribus Castle on hills that form the dividing line between the Corbières and the Pyrenees mountain ranges. The wind funnels through these hills at speeds of up to 60 mph/100 kph, and the sun is relentless. The vines struggle to survive, producing just two to three bunches per vine.
The dry, unfortified wines must be a blend of a minimum of two grape varieties, with Grenache as the main component. Prior to release, wines are aged until March 1 of the year after harvest, and producers must put "Sec" on the label.
Vins Doux Naturels (VDNs)
What are VDNs?
Vins doux naturels are fortified sweet wines made by adding grape spirit to halt fermentation, preserving residual sugar. There are five VDN appellations in Roussillon — four are predominantly based on Grenache varieties, and one is based entirely on Muscat.
Grapes [P] Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d'Alexandrie
This is a large appellation encompassing most of the département of Pyrénées-Orientales (including Maury and Banyuls/Collioure) and Languedoc's Fitou. Much of production focuses on flat plains surrounding the town of Rivesaltes just north of Perpignan.
Aromas of peach, orange blossom, honey, and honeysuckle with a rich and unctuous texture. Can be labeled as "Muscat de Noël" for wines marketed during Christmas of the harvest year.
White [P] Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Tourbat [S] Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d'Alexandrie
Rosé/Gris [P] Grenache Gris
Red [P] Grenache
Rivesaltes and Muscat de Rivesaltes share the same zone of production with the exception of the area of Banyuls/Collioure. Wines can be made as fortified red, rosé, or white, and most are made oxidatively.
White [P] Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Tourbat [S] Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d'Alexandrie
Rosé/Gris [P] Grenache Gris
Red [P] Grenache [S] Syrah, Carignan
Maury makes red and white VDNs, both oxidatively and reductively, and uses similar terminology to Rivesaltes. Whites are primarily made from Grenache Blanc and Gris, Macabeu, and Tourbat, but production is small. Reds dominate production and can be made from the three varieties of Grenache.
White [P] Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Tourbat [S] Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d'Alexandrie, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Carignan Blanc
Rosé/Gris [P] Grenache Gris
Red [P] Grenache [S] Syrah, Carignan, Cinsaut, Counoise, Mourvèdre
Banyuls makes red, rosé, and white VDNs on steeply terraced slopes of schist. Many of the vines are old, yields are low, and there is little disease pressure due to sun and wind. It is quite common to co-plant several grape varieties together in one vineyard and harvest them all at the same time.
Most production is Grenache-based red, and most of this is made in various oxidative styles.
Grapes: Minimum 75% Grenache Noir
Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Cru cover the same delimited area of production; however, Banyuls Grand Cru must contain a minimum of 75% Grenache Noir and must be aged in oak until June 1 of the third year after harvest.
Wines are oxidative in style with characteristics of fig, prune, caramel, leather, tobacco, and coffee.
VDN Style Terminology
| Style | Color | Method | Label Terms |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reductive Red | Ruby | Fresh, fruity | Grenat (with vintage) |
| Oxidative Red | Tawny | Aged, complex | Tuilé (with vintage or Hors d'Age) |
| Very Oxidative Red | Brown | 5+ years | Tuilé Rancio |
| Reductive White | Pale | Fresh | Blanc (with vintage) |
| Oxidative White | Amber | Aged | Ambré (with vintage or Hors d'Age) |
| Very Oxidative White | Dark Amber | 5+ years | Ambré Rancio |
IGP Wines
There are three IGPs in Roussillon: Pays d'Oc IGP, Côtes Catalanes IGP, and Côte Vermeille IGP. The most well-known is Pays d'Oc IGP. In Roussillon, it is used to produce straightforward varietal wines.
Côtes Catalanes IGP covers most of the département of Pyrénées-Orientales. In 2019, it produced approximately the same volume of wine as did Côtes du Roussillon AOC.
Côtes Catalanes IGP is used by some producers for ambitious, high-quality wines that would not fit under an AOC banner due to existing production regulations.
Others use this IGP to produce a non-fortified rancio style of red or white wine (often involving outdoor aging in glass bonbonnes). This product must be aged until August 31 of the fifth year after harvest. These unique wines have a dark amber color with tangy aromas and flavors of walnuts, burnt butter, dried fruits, and spices.
Côte Vermeille IGP
This IGP covers the Banyuls/Collioure area and is rarely used.
Production by Appellation (CIVR 2019)
| Appellation | % Production |
|---|---|
| Côtes du Roussillon AOC | 25% |
| Rivesaltes AOC | 25% |
| Côtes Catalanes IGP | 13% |
| Pays d'Oc IGP | 10% |
| Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC | 9% |
| Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC | 6% |
| Banyuls/Banyuls Grand Cru AOC | 6% |
| Collioure AOC | 2% |
| Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel | 2% |
| Other | 2% |