Overview
Regional Identity
Cultural Provence is an entity with undefined borders. In the south of France, it encompasses a Mediterranean landscape and Mediterranean cuisine accented by garrigue and maquis, olive trees, figs, lavender, grapevines and sunflowers.
The Provençal wine region is much smaller than Provence's cultural reach. It lies within the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur administrative region but does not fill it. Vineyards compete with urbanization (Cannes, Nice, Saint-Tropez, Arles and Marseille) and a restrictive environmental protection policy guarding the region's forests.
Key Distinctions
- Provence is the second most popular tourist destination in France after Paris
- Provence has invested €4 million in the Centre du Rosé, the only research center in the world to focus on the production of rosé
- High-profile investors: Brad Pitt, George Lucas, Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH), Tenute del Mondo and Chanel
- Rosé has graduated from "inexpensive summertime quaff" to something elegant, gastronomic and sophisticated
Production by AOC (2019)
| AOC | % of Production |
|---|---|
| Côtes de Provence | 69% |
| Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence | 16% |
| Coteaux Varois en Provence | 11% |
| Other (6 AOCs combined) | 4% |
Together, Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence claim 96% of all wine production in Provence; 90% of this is rosé.
Frédéric Mistral
Provençal Poet & Nobel Laureate
Frédéric Mistral championed the Occitan language and Provençal folk art and culture. He was awarded the 1904 Nobel Prize for Literature and the French Légion d'Honneur medal. He is best known for giving voice to the cicada, the iconic symbol of Provence, by coining the motto for the Association of Provençal Poets (Félibrige): "Lou souleù mi fa canta"...the sun makes me sing.
Viticultural History
Timeline
Provence's viticultural history began with the arrival of the Phocaeans, who introduced wine culture and founded the port city of Massalia (today's Marseille). An alliance with Rome gave Massalia an opportunity to export its lightly pigmented wines through the vast Roman trade complex.
As Roman power weakened, the area saw a series of invaders come and go, each influencing the Provençal winemaking tradition through grapes or methods brought from their home regions.
Provence became involved in a power struggle between rulers from Barcelona, the Kingdom of Burgundy, and the Holy Roman Empire. None of the political or social chaos of the time favored a commercial wine industry, so the vineyards fell under the care and protection of the monastic orders.
Nobility and military leaders acquired and managed many vineyards in Provence (often in their retirement from service). Provence's wines became prestigious…the drink of aristocrats.
Provence officially became part of France. Then the region slipped into agricultural slumber.
The phylloxera epidemic devastated the region's vineyards. Around the same time, the birth of the railroad opened up new markets for Provence and brought sun-seeking tourists to drink the wine in situ. Growers replanted with vines that could produce in volume.
By the 1930s, it was time to replant again. Those vines planted after the phylloxera crisis were aging. This time, however, growers focused on quality grapes instead of those with higher productivity.
Within a year of the advent of the appellation contrôlée system in 1935, the wines of Provence received recognition. Cassis obtained AOC status in 1936, followed by Bandol and Bellet in 1941 and Palette in 1948. But these areas accounted for a very small percentage of the region's wine production. The areas producing the largest quantities of wine did not receive AOC status until the 1970s, 80s and 90s.
Provence created a classification system (Cru Classé) to recognize the qualitative achievements of certain estates.
Location & Climate
Boundaries
- West: Rhône River and Languedoc
- East: Italy
- South: Mediterranean Sea
- North: Durance River (though the northernmost Provence vineyard area, Pierrevert, lies just north of that)
Climate
The climate is decidedly Mediterranean; however, some interior areas experience some alpine or continental influences due to elevation.
| Feature | Detail |
|---|---|
| Sunshine | 2,700-3,000 hours per year (exceptional) |
| Summers | Generally dry and hot |
| Sea Influence | Moderates coastal temperatures; inland is cooler at night |
| Rainfall | 23-35 in/600-900 mm per year, winter-dominant |
The Mistral
Key Wind
The Mistral impacts Provence in the same way as it does the Rhône Valley, except that Provence's many mountain chains channel this cool, dry wind in a southeasterly direction. The Mistral helps keep vineyards dry and disease-free.
Geology, Topography & Soils
Although many think of the Provençal landscape in terms of lavender fields and broad expanses of sunflowers, the region has significant topographical relief.
The eastern portion of Provence is the most mountainous, and this topography (plus population pressure along the French Riviera) means that viticulture is not as universally widespread as in the central and western reaches of the region.
Two Principal Soil Types
Calcareous Limestone
Found along the western boundaries of the region. The hills and ranges here are primarily made up of limestone and clay. Garrigue, a term that refers to the resinous herbs that grow upon alkaline soils, is found on limestone.
Quartz-Rich Schist
Found in the eastern parts of the region; crystalline or quartz-rich schist. Maquis, another mix of resinous scrub, grows on acidic quartz-rich schist.
Key Topographical Features (East to West)
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Maritime Alps | Run along the border with Italy |
| Massif de l'Esterel | Small chain of volcanic coastal mountains between Fréjus and Cannes; rises to 2,000 ft/600 m |
| Massif des Maures | Coastal range 2,570 ft/780 m; runs along the Mediterranean coast between Hyères and Fréjus; granite, gneiss and mica schist |
| Sainte-Baume | Mountain range stretching from Toulon to Marseille; peak at 3,763 ft/1,147 m |
| Massif des Calanques | Runs along the coast between Marseille and Cassis; deeply creviced limestone cliffs; highest point 1,854 ft/565 m |
| Montagne Sainte-Victoire | The most famous mountain of Provence, thanks to the paintings of Cézanne; east of Aix-en-Provence; reaches 3,316 ft/1,011 m |
| Les Alpilles | Chain of low mountains (1,270 ft/381 m) south of Avignon; 15 mi/24 km west to east |
| Mont Ventoux | 38 mi/61 km northeast of Avignon; climbs to 6,273 ft/1,912 m; part of the Tour de France (culturally Provence, but vineyard areas belong to Rhône Valley's Ventoux AOC) |
Other Features
- Camargue: The far southwestern reaches of Provence (around Arles) are flat. Here, the Rhône Delta spreads and floods, forming a vast and largely vine-less salt marsh
- Throughout much of viticultural Provence, vineyards come right down to the sea. The sea cools and refreshes the vines and mitigates intense summer heat
Grape Varieties
Provence's grape varieties testify to the diverse history of the region as well as its political changeovers. The major indigenous grapes of southern France are present as are some Spanish and Italian varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon makes an appearance as well, having been introduced to Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence by Georges Brunet, owner of Bordeaux's Château La Lagune, after World War II.
Evolution of Plantings
| Year | Top Varieties |
|---|---|
| 1961 (Pre-AOC) | Carignan 39%, Ugni Blanc 29%, Clairette 13%, Cinsaut 11%, Grenache 4% |
| 2017 (Current) | Grenache 38%, Cinsaut 19%, Syrah 16%, Carignan 8%, Vermentino 5%, Mourvèdre 5% |
Key White Grapes
- Primary white grape in the majority of Provençal whites
- Can also be used as a blending partner in Provence's rosés
- 5% of plantings (2017)
- A primary or secondary white grape in every Provence AOC, including Cassis
- Its plantings have diminished since the 1960s
- Partners with Clairette in the white wines of Cassis
Sémillon, Ugni Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Araignan, Colombaud, Furmint, Muscat à Petits Grains Blanc, Muscat d'Alexandrie, Pascal Blanc, Piquepoul Blanc, Terret Blanc, Blanqueiron, Chardonnay (Bellet only), Mayorquin and Viognier.
Key Red Grapes
- The dominant red grape in Provence's rosé blends
- Its thin skin and light color are assets for rosé production
- Constituted only 4% of plantings in 1961
- Adds moderate pigment, red fruit and floral notes to Provence's reds and rosés
- Takes center stage in the reds and rosés of Bandol
- Late-ripening; thrives in Bandol's long, hot growing season
- Third most-planted variety in Provence
- Crafts pink wines; used in rosé blends
- Produces rosé with a salmon hue (as opposed to pink)
- Indigenous to Provence
- Unique to Bellet AOC, where it is used in reds and rosés
- Most Bellet rosés are made from 100% Braquet Noir
- Was 39% of plantings in 1961; now reduced to secondary variety
Rose/Gris Grapes
Barbaroux, Clairette Rose and Terret Gris are all authorized for use in Provence, mostly in the small AOC of Palette.
Viticulture
Vine Training
- Gobelet: Older vines were planted and trained in the gobelet system
- Guyot: Newer vineyards are trained in Guyot fashion; this method works with trellis support and assists with mechanization
Harvest for Rosé
In rosé production, color management and aroma retention is vital. Many producers mechanically harvest at night in order to bring cool fruit into the winery.
- Harvest parameters for rosé are more in line with those for white wine production
- The focus is on retention of acidity. Crafting a fresh wine is paramount
- Grapes harvested for rosé production will be picked 10-14 days earlier than grapes harvested for red wine production
- Picking ripe fruit (without green notes) that still possesses vibrant acidity is pivotal to producing quality rosé
Climate Change Adaptations
Provence's Centre du Rosé research facility is currently focusing on climate change. Over the last century, average temperatures have increased by 2.5°F/1.4°C, and it is expected that temperatures will increase by an additional 3.6-10.8°F/2-6°C over the next 80 years.
- Irrigation is allowed if there is a shortfall of precipitation
- Vignerons can pull water from the Canal de Provence
- Organic initiatives have proven very helpful in mitigating hydric stress
- Rye grass cover crops are planted, then cut as soon as the rye begins to compete with the vines for water. The cut rye is left as a mulch to prevent soil moisture from evaporating
Cork Oak Restoration
Massif des Maures
The region is working to restore its old cork oak forests in the Massif des Maures. (This was one of France's largest cork-producing areas in the past!) They are also embracing agroforestry by planting single rows of trees midst the vineyards to create shade.
Winemaking
Wine Styles
Provence makes dry whites, rosés and reds. No sparkling or sweet wine is made under current AOC rules.
Around 90% of Provence's total production is rosé. Both direct press and saignée methods can be used, but direct press is traditional; wines must be fermented dry at no more than 0.4% (4 g/l) RS. Most AOCs mandate a blend and allow a prescribed percentage of white grapes to be co-fermented with the red.
Rosé Color
The Provence rosé hue is pale pink or salmon. The color depends on various factors:
| Factor | Effect on Color |
|---|---|
| Grape variety | Syrah/Mourvèdre = pink; Tibouren = salmon |
| Ripeness of vintage | Warmer = more color |
| Temperature at harvest | Warm grapes = more color |
| Method | Direct press = pale; saignée = more saturated |
| Maceration time | Longer = more pigment extraction |
| Oxygen exposure | More oxygen = more orange tones |
| Soil type | Volcanic soils = more orange tones |
| Acidity | Higher acidity = more pink; lower acidity = more salmon |
Two Distinct Types of Wines
A very important distinction, made locally, is the type of wine being crafted. According to Provence producers, reds, whites and rosés are intentionally crafted in two very distinct fashions:
Vins de Soif (Thirst-Quenching Wines)
Light-bodied, crisp, refreshing wines intended to be enjoyed as an aperitif. These might be made with shorter maceration times (for the reds) and from vineyards with slightly higher yields; all will generally be made without the use of oak.
Vins de Gastronomie (Gastronomic Wines)
Deeper in color, fuller-bodied and more structured; meant to be enjoyed with a meal. These might be made from more select grapes and/or free-run juice alone. They may also be aged in oak. Red wine in this category could also be called vin de garde — wine for keeping.
Premium Rosé
There is a growing focus on premium and even super-premium rosés plus hope for authorization to make sparkling rosés in the future. Producers are hoping that consumers will move beyond super-fresh rosé and allow these Provençal bottlings to shed their fermentation aromas and flavors. "Grand rosé" or "rosé à conserver" will improve with 2-3 years of bottle age. In addition, rosé can express terroir. The growing number of DGCs within the Côtes de Provence appellation is testimony to a nuanced product that is capable of expressing "somewhereness."
The Flûte à Corset
Iconic Provence Bottle
The Syndicat de Defense des Côtes de Provence designed and copyrighted a bottle in the 1960s that quickly became an iconic symbol of Provençal rosé. This hourglass-shaped bottle is referred to as a flûte à corset (referencing its pinched mid-section) or a skittle (referencing a traditional European bowling game). The bottle shape mirrors a bowling pin (quille in French).
The Appellations
White: Clairette [P] Sémillon [P] Ugni Blanc [P] Vermentino [P]
Red: Cinsaut [P] Grenache [P] Mourvèdre [P] Syrah [P] Tibouren [P] Cabernet Sauvignon [S] Carignan [S]
The largest of the Provence AOCs, encompassing 84 communes over 50,000 ac/20,000 ha. Made up of five non-contiguous vineyard areas. Due to the wide variety of climatic conditions, there is diversity in the wines as well—some vineyards are coastal and strongly impacted by the Mediterranean; others are located far inland and hallmarked by continental or alpine influences.
White Côtes de Provence may be crafted from any of the authorized white grapes with no restrictions on the blend. Reds and rosés must contain at least two red grapes; one of them must be primary, and primary grapes must account for the majority of the blend. Rosé can be made by saignée, short maceration or direct press and can contain up to 20% of white grapes.
Côtes de Provence — 5 DGCs
Within the Côtes de Provence AOC are five DGCs (dénominations géographiques complémentaires) that can place their names on the label if the wines comply with more specific production standards. They are Sainte-Victoire, Fréjus, La Londe, Notre-Dame des Anges and Pierrefeu. All five craft reds and rosés under their DGC banner, but each DGC varies slightly with regard to the primary and secondary grapes used. Uniquely, La Londe is also allowed to make white wines under its designation.
| DGC | Special Notes |
|---|---|
| Sainte-Victoire | Only DGC that can use carbonic maceration for reds |
| Fréjus | Reds must spend 6 months in oak barrels or foudres; aged until Oct 15 |
| La Londe | Only DGC that can make white wines under its designation |
| Notre-Dame des Anges | Reds aged until August 15 |
| Pierrefeu | Reds aged until October 15 |
Côtes de Provence Crus Classés
1955 Classification
Provence created a classification system in 1955 to recognize the qualitative achievements of certain estates. The classification consists of only one level: Cru Classé. Originally, it applied to 23 estates, but five are no longer making wine, so the number stands at 18 today.
Like the Bordeaux Classification of 1855, the Provence classification ranks the estate, rather than the vineyard. However, the original classification was based on the characteristics of the vineyard at that time, and Cru Classé wine can only be made from the vineyard area that was originally classified (i.e. estates cannot acquire new vineyard land and include those grapes in Cru Classé wine). The classification has never been revised or modified.
The "Club des Crus Classés des Côtes de Provence" was created in 2000 and is open to those classified properties who wish to join. In 2005, they signed a charter of excellence. Currently 14 of the 18 classified estates are members.
White: Vermentino [P] Clairette [S] Grenache Blanc [S] Sauvignon Blanc [S]
Red: Cinsaut [P] Counoise [P] Grenache [P] Mourvèdre [P] Syrah [P] Cabernet Sauvignon [S] Carignan [S]
The second-largest Provençal wine appellation. Includes 49 communes, covers nearly 10,600 ac/4,300 ha and lies in the western/northwestern portion of the region. The area is heavily influenced by the Mistral. Wines require at least two varieties in the blend. Whites are Vermentino-dominant. Rosés and reds generally use Grenache, Mourvèdre and/or Syrah to form the backbone of the blend, but Counoise and Cinsaut are often added to the mix.
White: Vermentino [P] Clairette [P] Grenache Blanc [P]
Red: Cinsaut [P] Grenache [P] Mourvèdre [P] Syrah [P] Cabernet Sauvignon [S] Carignan [S] Tibouren [S]
Encompasses 28 communes in the heart of Provence. The area is tucked between the two largest parts of the Côtes de Provence AOC; DGC Sainte-Victoire lies to the west, and the largest of the five non-contiguous sections of Côtes de Provence lies to the east. The region is sheltered by limestone hills and mountains. The northern portion experiences some continental influences in addition to its otherwise Mediterranean climate.
The vines grow in chalky clay soils at elevations of 1,150-1,640 ft/350-500 m. Due to the relatively high elevation, the rosé wines boast fresh, if not piquant, acidity with more reserved fruit character than other Provençal AOCs. The whites must be at least 30% Vermentino with Clairette and Grenache Blanc as principal blending partners.
White: Clairette [P] Marsanne [P] Bourboulenc [S] Pascal Blanc [S] Sauvignon Blanc [S]
Red: Cinsaut [P] Grenache [P] Mourvèdre [P] Carignan [S]
Cassis is an appellation made up of terraced vineyards along the Mediterranean coast east of Marseille. The vines are wedged between the sea and the Massif des Calanques, which are high, deeply creviced limestone cliffs that shelter the vineyards from the Mistral.
This AOC is unique in that it is the only appellation in Provence to produce more white wine (71%) than red or rosé. White Cassis requires anywhere between 30-80% Marsanne in the blend, and at least 60% of the total must be Marsanne and/or Clairette. Red and rosé wines are Cinsaut, Grenache and/or Mourvèdre-dominant. Rosés may incorporate up to 20% white grape varieties into the mix.
White: Clairette [P] Bourboulenc [P] Ugni Blanc [P] Sauvignon Blanc [S] Marsanne [S] Sémillon [S] Vermentino [S]
Red: Cinsaut [P] Grenache [P] Mourvèdre [P] Carignan [S] Syrah [S]
The Bandol appellation comprises vineyards on or near the Mediterranean coast just to the west of Toulon. This is one of Provence's oldest vine-growing regions and was thriving until phylloxera arrived in the 1880s. When the vineyards were replanted, Mourvèdre emerged as the cornerstone of the region's newfound success.
Most of the vineyards face south, toward the sea, in the form of a natural amphitheater. The terraces are supported by low, man-made walls of river stone called restanques. The soils are mainly pebbly limestone with pockets of sandy marls and sandstone. The aridity and low fertility of the soils are considered key factors for quality and character.
Late-ripening Mourvèdre thrives in the long, hot growing season found here. White grapes are planted on north-facing slopes to minimize heat. Nearly 75% of production is rosé and red; white production is declining. All grapes must be hand harvested.
Both the rosés and reds of Bandol are based on Mourvèdre; however, neither can include more than 95% in the blend. Grenache and Cinsaut usually complete the mix. Bandol reds must be aged a minimum of 18 months in oak. They will evolve for ten years before peaking and need at least three years of bottle aging to be fully appreciated.
White: Clairette [P] Grenache Blanc [P] Vermentino [P] Roussanne [S] Bourboulenc [S] Marsanne [S]
Red: Grenache [P] Mourvèdre [P] Syrah [P] Cinsaut [S] Cabernet Sauvignon [S] Counoise [S]
Les Baux de Provence is south of Avignon and overlays the northwest of Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence AOC. The vineyards surround the village of Les Baux-de-Provence, a 13th-century fortification perched on a rocky plateau in the Alpilles Mountains about 800 ft/240 m above sea level. In Provençal, a baou is a rocky outcrop, hence the name of the town. The limestone hills are rich in Bauxite, a mineral that was named after the village. The area is very hot—it is adjacent to an area known as Val d'Enfer (Hell Valley).
Les Baux de Provence is a stronghold of organic and biodynamic viticulture in Provence. In fact, Les Vignerons des Baux-de-Provence report that 100% of the surface is farmed organically, biodynamically or using lutte raisonnée.
Over 90% of production is red or rosé, evenly split. All wines are blends of at least two primary varieties. Reds are aged until September 15 of the year following harvest, but oak aging is not mandated. Whites must be aged until April 1.
White: Clairette [P] Bourboulenc [P] + many obscure varieties
Rose/Gris: Clairette Rose [P] Terret Gris [S]
Red: Cinsaut [P] Grenache [P] Mourvèdre [P] + many obscure varieties
Palette is the smallest appellation in Provence and its vineyards are located on both sides of the Arc River, just east of Aix-en-Provence. Palette is only about 118 ac/48 ha in size and is made up of just a handful of producers. The most famous of these is Château Simone, which is responsible for about half of the AOC's total production.
The area produces red (40%), white (40%) and rosé (20%) wines using a long list of often obscure grape varieties. White wines must include at least 55% of the primary varieties. Red and rosé blends must be comprised of a majority of the primary varieties, and Mourvèdre must be one of them; no variety can constitute over 80% of the mix.
This AOC has aging requirements. Whites and rosés cannot be released until April 1 of the year following harvest; reds cannot be released until April 1 of the second year after harvest and must spend 18 months in oak. Under Palette's AOC rules, grapes must be hand harvested and sorted.
White: Vermentino [P] Clairette [S] Bourboulenc [S] Chardonnay [S] Mayorquin [S]
Red: Braquet Noir [P] Fuella Nera [S] Cinsaut [S] Grenache [S]
The terraced vineyards of Bellet surround Nice and flank the Var River at elevations between 660-990 ft/200-300 m. The appellation produces whites, rosés and reds in equal proportion.
Vermentino is the dominant white grape variety by far and is often blended with Chardonnay and/or Clairette. Rosés are allowed to be made from Braquet Noir, Fuella Nera, Grenache, Cinsaut and white varieties; however, most are made from 100% Braquet Noir. The reds are made with Braquet Noir and Fuella Nera; it is common for Grenache to complete the blend.
Interestingly, the Bellet AOC does not allow any Bordeaux grape varieties, yet it is the only AOC in Provence that permits the use of Chardonnay. As of 2020, there are 123 ac/50 ha in production and only nine commercial wineries.
White: Clairette [P] Grenache Blanc [P] Marsanne [P] Piquepoul [P] Roussanne [P] Ugni Blanc [P] Vermentino [P] Viognier [P]
Red: Grenache [P] Syrah [P] Cinsaut [P] Carignan [S] Mourvèdre [S]
Pierrevert is located in the northernmost section of Provence at an average elevation of 1,500 ft/450 m. The appellation has strong alpine influences, and the diurnal temperature swings here are the greatest in all of Provence. The wines produced are more similar in style to the wines of the Rhône Valley, and permitted grape varieties generally mirror those found there.
Whites must contain Grenache Blanc or Vermentino. Rosés are dominated by Cinsaut, Grenache and/or Syrah. Reds are most often comprised of Grenache and Syrah.
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