Champagne

Ancient & Medieval History

• Vineyards became well established in Champagne by the 4th and 5th centuries CE
• At this time, Champagne was ruled by Rome, and it was Roman culture that initiated formal viticulture
• The area also became an important quarrying site for building stone and a crossroads for trade
• When Rome declined (400s CE), Champagne was overrun by Vandals, Teutons, Franks, and Huns
• Clovis, King of the Franks, converted to Catholicism and was baptized in Reims

Early Wines

• By the 9th century, the wines of Champagne had established two names: vins de la montagne (mountain wines) and vins de la rivière (river wines)
• But all the wines were still and most were red
• During the Middle Ages, Champagne became a crossroads for merchants; large fairs lasting up to 49 days were held twice a year

The Birth of Sparkling Wine

• The northern hemisphere experienced exceptionally cold periods around 1650, 1770, and 1850
• In cool cellars, early winter halted fermentation mid-way; spring warmth restarted it, and wines developed slight effervescence
• This sparkle was not well received initially — some used wooden whisks (mossers) to release the gas
• Up until the end of the 1600s, "sparkling" wine was a serendipitous occurrence
• Three 17th-century advancements facilitated control: stronger glass bottles, uniform bottle neck openings, and cork seals

Key Historical Milestones

Royal Reims

After the baptism of Clovis, the city of Reims became extraordinarily important politically. Because Reims was a political and social beacon, Champagne became a center of conflict during many wars: the Hundred Years War, Napoléon's battles, and both World Wars. In WWI, fighting was so heavy that vignerons still find bullet casings when they work the land.

Geography

• The most northerly of all French wine regions
• Lies between the 48th and 49.5th parallels north
• The 50th parallel represents the northernmost limit of the vine in mainland Europe
• A short 1.5-hour drive east of Paris

Climate

Continental with marked maritime influences

• Historically, the region has barely received enough sunshine to ripen the grape
• On average, only 1,680 sunshine hours per year (rising to 2,100 in very hot years like 2003)
• Summers are warm but seldom hot; winters are cold
• Temperatures can drop below 14°F / -10°C for three to four days a year
• Champagne generally experiences 60–80 days of frost each year!
• Spring and autumn can see heavy frosts
• Rainfall is ample and precipitation falls year round
• Cloud cover is common; breezes are laden with moisture

Mesoclimates

• Champagne's topography helps create mesoclimates that provide the vine with shelter, warmth, and adequate air circulation
• The folded and convoluted hills create suntraps
• The network of rivers and canals, plus maritime influences, help moderate temperatures and mitigate frost damage

Climate Change

• Over the past 30 years, average temperatures have increased approximately 2°F / 1.2°C
• Both flowering and harvest have shifted forward 10 to 14 days
• Sites susceptible to frost have higher risk due to increasingly early bud break
• On the positive side: Pinot Noir and Meunier for red Coteaux Champenois now ripen more completely
• All grapes achieving physiological ripeness more consistently; chaptalization less routine
• Natural alcohol levels have risen; acid levels have dropped → lower dosage levels

The Paris Basin

The Champagne region lies within the Paris Basin, a large downward depression of sedimentary rock strata.

Three Main Soil Types

Chalk & Crayères

• Chalk is a type of porous limestone, a sedimentary rock composed of calcium carbonate
• Many ancient underground quarries, known as crayères, are now used as wine cellars
• Thanks to their cool temperatures (50°F / 10°C) and ample humidity, they are perfect for wine storage
• Champagne was an "open expanse" (treeless) because the thin topsoil resting on chalk could not support higher plant life

Belemnite vs. Micraster Chalk

• Some chalk layers reflect ancient marine sedimentation from when the Paris Basin was an inland sea
• Belemnite chalk: fossilized remains of ancient arrow- or dart-like relatives of today's squid
• Micraster chalk: composed of fossilized sea-urchins (starfish family)
• Studies found no significant mineral or physical differences between the two
• However, due to earth upheavals 45 mya, Belemnite chalk ended up at upper to mid-slope (best position for vines); Micraster at lower slopes

Kimmeridgean Marl

• The soils of the Côte des Bar (Aube) are unique within Champagne
• Comprised of Virgulien marl, also known as Kimmeridgean marl, formed during the Jurassic period (199–145 mya)
• These fossilized marine deposits are those of a small comma-shaped oyster known as Exogyra virgula
• The Côte des Bar is part of the Kimmeridgean Ring — the same limestone-rich marl outcroppings found in Chablis, Sancerre, and parts of England

Historical Varieties

From the 9th to 16th centuries, the principal grapes were Gouais (Blanc and Noir) and Fromenteau. Up to the early 20th century, white varieties included Pinot Blanc, Arbanne/Arbane, and Petit Meslier; reds included Chasselas Rouge, Gamay, Morillon (Pinot Noir), Enfumé Noir, and Pinot Meunier.

Area Under Vine (CIVC 2018)

Secondary Varieties (<0.3%)

• Pinot Gris: believed to be the historic Fromenteau; occasionally used on its own or in blends
• Pinot Blanc, Arbane, Petit Meslier: authorized but represent tiny plantings; producers like Tarlant and Drappier craft champagnes from these historic grapes

Training Methods

There are four approved training methods for the vines of Champagne:

Rootstocks & Clones

• Because of the chalky soils, care must be taken to use rootstocks that have adapted
• Rootstock 41B has an affinity to chalky soils and is the rootstock of choice for a large majority of vines
• Clones are selected to deliver high-acid berries resistant to gray rot and botrytis
• Many choose Pinot Noir clones with bigger berries (more juice) as well as Meunier clones with later bud break (frost avoidance)

Organic & Biodynamic

• The warming trend has enabled the Champenois to make headway in organic and biodynamic practices
• Among the most vocal advocates: Champagne Louis Roederer and grower-producers Fleury and Larmandier-Bernier
• However, the slow uptake is not just linked to marginal climate — there are 300+ champagne houses but over 15,000 growers
• Since most champagne is made from purchased grapes blended from different vineyards, villages, and sub-regions, being able to label a champagne "organic" or "biodynamic" is a monumental feat

Vintage vs. Non-Vintage

• Vintage champagne tells the story of the grape during one growing season — a snapshot in time
• Non-vintage (more accurately "multi-vintage") reflects the ongoing vision of the house style
• Non-vintage Brut makes up the majority of exports (78.5% in 2019)

Dosage & Sweetness Styles

Champagne styles are categorized by their level of dosage (sugar added after disgorgement):

In the 19th century, doux champagnes were quite popular (especially with the Russian market). When the Tsar was overthrown, that market collapsed, and the Champenois started producing drier versions — a trend initiated by Madame Pommery.

Champagne Styles

Blanc de Blancs

White sparkling wine made from authorized white grapes (largely Chardonnay). Can be delicate and lace-like with finesse, or rich and powerful depending on terroir and winemaking.

Blanc de Noirs

White sparkling wine made from black grapes (Pinot Noir and/or Meunier). Often carries a bit of tannin and more overt, expressive aroma. Powerful and fruity on the palate.

Rosé

Structured with noticeable tannic grip. Most are made by adding 8–20% top-quality red wine (Pinot Noir) to the base wine, although some houses make a rosé de saignée.

Special Bottlings

• Grand Cru: grapes sourced exclusively from the 17 Grand Cru villages
• Premier Cru: grapes from the 42 Premier Cru villages (may also include Grand Cru fruit)
• Prestige Cuvées: a house's highest-quality bottlings, made from special parcels, old vines, Grand Cru sites, or with prolonged lees aging. Examples: Cristal (Roederer), La Grande Dame (Clicquot), Dom Pérignon (Moët)
• Late-Disgorged (LD): spent many years on lees before disgorgement; youthful despite extended cellar age
• Single-Vineyard (mono-parcelle): from one parcel; embraces vintage variation. Example: Philipponnat's Clos des Goisses (since 1935)
• Single-Cru (mono-cru): from one village. Example: Salon's Cuvée "S" from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (since 1921)
• Spécial Club: peer-reviewed prestige cuvées from members of the Club Trésors de Champagne; must pass two blind tastings
• Solera / Perpetual Reserve: made from a single tank or foudre kept perpetually, with portions bottled and new wine added

Label Nomenclature

The Échelle des Crus

• The Échelle des Crus (Scale of Growths) was created in 1911 to rank the 300+ wine-producing villages
• Villages ranked on a scale of 80–100%
• Grand Cru = 100% rating — 17 villages
• Premier Cru = 90–99% rating — 42 villages
• Villages between 80–89% = the balance of champagne-producing villages
• Historically, the CIVC announced the price per kilo for 100%-rated fruit; lesser-rated vineyards got proportionately less
• Since 2003, the Échelle has no longer been used to set grape prices — prices are now settled by individual contract

Grand Cru Villages (17)