Overview
Production Breakdown
| Wine Style | Percentage |
|---|---|
| White Wine | 60% (as of 2019) |
| Red and Rosé | 29% |
| Crémant | 11% |
Industry Structure
| Type | Number | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Domaines | 3,577 | Average 16.1 ac / 6.51 ha |
| Co-operatives | 16 | |
| Négociants | 266 | 52% of wine sold through négociants |
The Bourgogne Quality Pyramid
1% | 33 AOCs
10% | 662 Climats
37% | 44 AOCs
52% | 7 AOCs
Key Concepts
- Climat: A named parcel or vineyard plot recognized for its unique terroir. Bourgogne's climats are UNESCO World Heritage sites.
- Lieu-dit: An unranked named parcel that may appear on village-level wine labels.
- Monopole: A vineyard wholly owned by a single producer (e.g., La Romanée-Conti, La Tâche).
- Clos: A walled vineyard, historically significant in Bourgogne.
Viticultural History
Timeline
The Eduens, a Celtic tribe, lived in what is now Bourgogne. Region was a major trade crossroads between Celtic tribes and Roman Empire.
Rome's ties weakened; Bourgogne invaded and sacked by barbarian tribes.
Germanic Burgondes tribe settled and founded the kingdom of Burgundia.
Monks and monasteries dominated the landscape. Church expanded vineyards and dominated wine production. They recognized differences in terroir.
The Dukes of Burgundy ruled the Duchy. All four served as strong advocates for Burgundian wine.
Bourgogne wines were ten times as expensive as all others. French royalty built châteaux along the Loire, drinking Loire wines instead.
Great domaines were broken up. Few monopoles survived.
King Louis-Philippe granted Gevrey the right to append "Chambertin" to its name. Most villages followed suit.
First wine auction held at Hospices de Beaune — still held annually after harvest.
First official vineyard classification by Agricultural Committee of Beaune.
Bourgogne's boundaries legally defined.
AOC legislation gave form and structure to Bourgogne's named parcels (climats).
The Four Dukes of Burgundy
Philippe the Bold (1363–1404)
Key Fact: Outlawed Gamay in an attempt to promote Pinot Noir.
John the Fearless (1404–1419)
Appointed guardian of future King of France; assassinated for being power-hungry.
Philippe the Good (1419–1467)
Key Fact: Captured Joan of Arc and surrendered her to the English. Established the Hospices de Beaune (charity hospital).
Charles the Rash (1467–1477)
Died attempting to conquer Alsace and Lorraine. With his death, Bourgogne was incorporated into France.
Location & Climate
Administrative Location
Part of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, covering three départements:
- Yonne (north — Chablis area)
- Côte d'Or (center — Côte de Nuits & Côte de Beaune)
- Saône-et-Loire (south — Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais)
Climate
Primary: Continental climate — deep within France
Influences:
- Oceanic influences in the north (Chablis)
- Mediterranean influences in the south (Mâconnais)
| Aspect | Details |
|---|---|
| Temperature Variation | Significant across 140 mi expanse |
| Bud Break | 1 week earlier in Mâconnais than Chablis |
| Harvest — Mâconnais | Early September |
| Harvest — Chablis | End of September |
| Climate Threats | Spring frosts, summer hailstorms |
Climate Change Impact
Harvest has moved forward by 10 days compared to 20 years ago. Challenge has shifted from achieving ripeness to delaying harvest so sugar and phenolic ripening align while retaining acidity.
Geology, Topography & Soils
Bourgogne sits on the edge of the Paris Basin — a geography of elliptical plates stacking from smallest (youngest) to largest (oldest). Each plate represents soils from a specific geological epoch.
Base Layer
Granite massif that surfaces in Beaujolais. All other, younger soils rest on top.
Sedimentary Layers
Limestone and marls formed over millions of years when France was covered by a warm, shallow sea. Oldest marine deposits in Mâconnais (south); youngest in Chablis (north).
The Côte d'Or Escarpment
When the Alps rose and the Bresse Plain sank, a graben (geological trough) formed. The Saône River runs through this trough, but the graben was not carved by water.
| Soil Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Colluvial | Soils formed from rain-driven slope wash (present in Bourgogne) |
| Alluvial | Soils formed from river sediment (NOT present in vineyard areas) |
Eight fault lines run through the Côte d'Or where earth moved up, down, left, and right. This shuffling, combined with erosion, creates the famous patchwork of different soils.
Slope Position and Quality
| Position | Characteristics | Typical Classification |
|---|---|---|
| Top of Slope | Thinnest topsoil, least water retention, steepest | Premier Cru |
| Mid-Slope | Moderate topsoil, adequate water, maximum sunlight | Grand Cru |
| Bottom of Slope | Deepest soils, most water retention | Village AOC |
Grape Preferences
- Pinot Noir: Prefers limestone soils or marls with high limestone content — elegant, lightly pigmented wines
- Chardonnay: Prefers marl — delivers dense, age-worthy whites with tremendous flavor concentration
Key Soil Types by Region
Kimmeridgean Marl
Location: Chablis Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and most Chablis AOC. Limestone-rich clay formed 160 mya. Conveys high-tensile strength and "electric" racy edge. Considered superior to Portlandian marl.
Portlandian Marl
Location: Petit Chablis, Châtillonnais, Grand Auxerrois. Sedimentary soil formed 140–150 mya. Petit Chablis vineyards at higher altitude = cooler = sharper, more tart wines.
Côte de Nuits
Sedimentary limestones and limestone-rich marls formed 170–160 mya. Overwhelmingly suited to Pinot Noir.
Côte de Beaune
Limestone and limestone-rich marls formed 160–150 mya (slightly younger). More evenly divided in suitability for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Grape Varieties
White Grapes
- Primary white grape of Bourgogne
- Principal in all white wines except Saint-Bris, Bouzeron, and Bourgogne Aligoté
- Second most important white grape
- ONLY variety in Bouzeron and Bourgogne Aligoté AOCs
- Primary grape of Saint-Bris AOC — the only Sauvignon-based AOC in Bourgogne
- Pinot Blanc: Can be used in many regional, village, and even some Grand Cru appellations
- Sacy: Can be used in Crémant de Bourgogne
- Melon de Bourgogne: Permitted in Coteaux Bourguignons and Crémant de Bourgogne
Rosé/Gris Grapes
- Authorized in white and red wines up to prescribed limits
- Primary variety for Marsannay and Bourgogne rosé (100% Pinot Gris is possible but uncommon)
Red Grapes
- Primary red variety of Bourgogne
- Principal or only variety in most reds
- Forms backbone of rosés
- Used in regional appellations
- For Bourgogne Gamay, fruit must come from Beaujolais Crus
- Primary grape in Mâcon reds/rosés; sole red grape for Mâcon with dénomination géographique complémentaire
- Can be used in regional wines from département of Yonne and in Irancy AOC
Viticulture
Farming Methods
| Method | Details |
|---|---|
| Lutte Raisonnée | Most common farming method in Bourgogne |
| Organic | 8.6% of vineyards organic or in conversion (2017) |
| Biodynamic | Adopted by noted producers including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leflaive |
Harvesting
| Region | Method |
|---|---|
| Chablis & Mâconnais | Machine harvesting extensively used |
| Côte d'Or | Handpicking dominates |
| Côte Chalonnaise | Both methods employed |
Climate Challenges
Frost Protection
In 2017, collective lighting of straw fires produced smoke in vineyards just before dawn, saving the region from catastrophic frost damage.
Hail Shield
In 2017, Bourgogne completed a "hail shield" giving protection to 100,000 ac / 40,500 ha through a network of hail cannons. When 40% chance of hail is forecast, cannons seed clouds with silver oxide pellets, reducing hailstone damage.
Winemaking
White Winemaking
| Region | Fermentation | Maturation |
|---|---|---|
| Mâconnais & Chablis | Stainless steel | Stainless steel, concrete, or neutral oak vats |
| Côte d'Or & Côte Chalonnaise (village+) | 228-liter barrels or steel | Oak maturation common; 20–50% new oak typical |
Premature Oxidation (Premox)
A problem where white Bourgogne ages too quickly or becomes completely oxidized. Causes not fully understood but linked to:
- Certain clones
- Fully ripe fruit
- Less use of sulfur
- Less bâtonnage
Problems are diminishing as producers take corrective actions.
Red Winemaking
Vinification has changed due to warmer temperatures:
- Pinot Noir clusters typically de-stemmed, but some producers now add whole clusters for brighter flavors
- Traditional: open-top fermenters with punch-down (pigeage)
- Modern trend: pump-over (remontage) methods with shorter maceration
| Level | Duration | New Oak |
|---|---|---|
| Côte d'Or & Côte Chalonnaise (village+) | 12–18 months | Some percentage of new oak |
Yeast
- Small producers: Often use indigenous yeasts
- Large négociants: Often select commercial yeasts
Négociants
52% of all wine produced is sold through négociants.
What are Négociants?
Companies that purchase grapes or wine from growers who are too small or lack inclination to bottle and market their own wine. Négociants possess different levels of talent — négociant wines are not inherently inferior to domaine bottlings.
Micro-Négociant
A recent trend — smaller-scale enterprises focusing on individual sites or appellations to produce terroir-based, high-end micro-cuvées.
Sparkling Wine
| AOC | Method | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Crémant de Bourgogne | Traditional method | White, Rosé |
| Bourgogne Mousseux | Traditional method | Red only (Gamay/Pinot Noir) |
Wine Classification System
All Bourgogne wines are AOC. Within the region, there's an additional quality hierarchy classifying vineyards (not producers).
The Four Tiers
1% production | 33 AOCs
Only vineyard name + "Grand Cru" on label
10% production | 662 climats
Village name + vineyard name + "Premier Cru"
37% production | 44 AOCs
Village name (lieu-dit optional)
52% production | 7 AOCs
"Bourgogne" or "Mâcon" on label
Label Reading
Grand Cru Labels
Only the vineyard name appears with "Grand Cru" — no village name needed (exception: Chablis Grand Cru always includes "Chablis").
Premier Cru Labels
Village name + vineyard name + "Premier Cru" or "1er Cru"
If no vineyard name listed, wine is a blend of multiple Premier Cru vineyards.
Village Labels
Village name only. If wine comes from a single lieu-dit, that name may appear.
Regional Labels
"Bourgogne" or "Mâcon" (+ village name for some Mâcon wines). Varietal nomenclature permitted on regional labels but NOT on higher-tier labels.
Premier Cru Statistics
As of 2020, Bourgogne's Premiers Crus increased from 640 to 662 with the addition of 22 from Pouilly-Fuissé.
Grand Cru Count by Sub-Region
| Sub-Region | Grand Crus |
|---|---|
| Côte de Nuits | 24 |
| Côte de Beaune | 8 |
| Chablis | 1 (with 7 climats) |
| Total | 33 |
The Sub-Regions of Bourgogne
From north to south:
- Chablis, Grand Auxerrois & Châtillonnais
- Côte d'Or (Côte de Nuits + Côte de Beaune)
- Côte Chalonnaise
- Mâconnais
Chablis, Grand Auxerrois & Châtillonnais
Northernmost locale — wines are lean with racy acidity and often "mineral" character.
| Area | Location | Production |
|---|---|---|
| Chablis | Serein River Valley | 100% white |
| Grand Auxerrois | Around Auxerre, Tonnerre, Vézelay, Joigny | 60% white, 40% red |
| Châtillonnais | East of Chablis, NW of Dijon | Specializes in Crémant de Bourgogne |
Chablis Quality Hierarchy
| Level | Soil | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Grand Cru | Kimmeridgean marl | Powerful, high-tensile, "electric" |
| Premier Cru | Kimmeridgean marl | Complex, age-worthy |
| Chablis | Mostly Kimmeridgean | Classic, mineral |
| Petit Chablis | Portlandian marl | Sharper, more tart, higher altitude |
La Moutonne
A climat lying on the Grand Cru hill, excluded from official decree but considered an unofficial Grand Cru climat. It is a monopole of Domaine Long-Depaquit, lying 95% in Vaudésir and 5% in Preuses.
Côte d'Or ("Golden Slope")
The Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune form the steep escarpment known as the Côte d'Or. Name may derive from the yellowing vine leaves in autumn, or simply be a contraction of "Côte d'Orient" (east-facing hillside).
- Extends 12 mi / 19 km from Dijon to Corgoloin
- Vineyards at 720–1,150 ft / 220–350 m elevation
- Most vineyards face east
- Continental climate with hot summers, cold winters
- Production almost entirely RED — structured with dark berry fruits, earth, spice
- Exception: Chambolle-Musigny wines are delicate, "silk and lace"
- Soils: sedimentary limestones and marls formed 170–160 mya
- Lies south of Côte de Nuits, north of Côte Chalonnaise
- Stretches from Ladoix-Serrigny to Maranges
- Vineyards at 720–1,150 ft / 220–350 m; escarpment softer and more broken
- Vineyards face southeast rather than east
- Production approximately 2/3 red, 1/3 white
- Reds are elegant with finesse; best from Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton
- Soils: limestone and marls formed 160–150 mya (slightly younger)
Côte Chalonnaise
- South of Côte de Beaune, north of Mâconnais
- East-facing slopes, but not continuous like Côte de Nuits
- Continental climate, slightly cooler (less shelter from westerlies)
- Soils similar to Côte de Beaune limestone-rich marls; transitions to sandier marls in Givry
- Production over 60% red
- Produces red, white, and sparkling wines
- Almost half reaches market as Bourgogne Rouge or Blanc
Mâconnais
- Largest sub-region in area under vine and wine production
- Bordered by Côte Chalonnaise (north), Grosne Valley (west), Saône Valley (east), Beaujolais (south)
- Continental climate influenced by Mediterranean — warmer, abundant sunshine
- Riper grapes with more pronounced fruit
- 90% planted to Chardonnay
Soils
- Limestone and marl: Formed 160–220 mya — some of the oldest in Bourgogne
- Granite and schist: Only area in Bourgogne where Beaujolais-style soils appear (southern Mâconnais bordering Beaujolais)
Bioherms
Pouilly-Fuissé lies in a topographical bowl rimmed by three bioherms (reef-like composites of starfish limestone):
- Rock of Solutré
- Rock of Vergisson
- Mont de Pouilly
The Appellations (84 AOCs)
Regional AOCs (7)
Three cover a wide range of regional dry wines; four are for specialty styles or grapes.
Styles: Dry White, Rosé, Red
White: Chardonnay [P] Pinot Blanc
Rosé/Gris: Pinot Gris [S]
Red: Pinot Noir [P] Gamay (Beaujolais Crus) César (Yonne)
White is normally 100% Chardonnay; red is normally 100% Pinot Noir. Red Bourgogne may contain Gamay from Beaujolais Crus or César from Yonne.
Formerly: Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
Styles: Dry White, Rosé (Clairet), Red
White: Chardonnay [P] Pinot Blanc Aligoté Melon
Red: Gamay [P] Pinot Noir César (Yonne)
Most general regional appellation. Sacy and Tressot may be incorporated if vines planted before 2009.
Styles: Dry White, Rosé, Red
White: Chardonnay [P]
Red: Gamay [P] Pinot Noir
Mâcon whites are 100% Chardonnay. Reds/rosés from Pinot Noir and Gamay. 26 DGCs for white wines, 20 for reds and rosés. Any Mâcon DGC wine must use only Chardonnay or Gamay (not Pinot Noir). Wines labeled "Mâcon-Villages" are white only.
Styles: Sparkling White, Sparkling Rosé
White: Chardonnay [P] Pinot Blanc Aligoté Melon Sacy
Rosé/Gris: Pinot Gris [P]
Red: Pinot Noir Gamay
Most common grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir. Minimum 9 months on lees.
Styles: Sparkling Red only
Red: Gamay [P] Pinot Noir César (Yonne)
Traditional method sparkling red. Must age 9 months on lees, minimum 3.5 atms pressure.
Styles: Dry White
White: Aligoté [P]
Wines are 100% Aligoté.
Styles: Rosé, Red
White: Chardonnay [S] Pinot Blanc
Rosé/Gris: Pinot Gris [S]
Red: Gamay [P] Pinot Noir
Must be at least 30% Pinot Noir and at least 15% Gamay. Field blend tradition.
Chablis Appellations
Seven climats on one southwest-facing slope, all on Kimmeridgean marl: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur, Vaudésir.
17 "umbrella" Premiers Crus, 40 total Premier Cru climats. Some vineyards on slopes, some on plains (expanded in 1980s for white wine demand).
Portlandian marl soils. Higher altitude, cooler, sharper and more tart wines.
Grand Auxerrois Village AOCs
Only Sauvignon-based AOC in Bourgogne. Vines possibly from Sancerre (80 mi / 120 km away). Both Kimmeridgean and Portlandian marls.
Only 12 ac / 5 ha of César planted (2019). Kimmeridgean marl soils.
Renaissance area — only a few hectares in 1960s, growing. Clay and limestone terroir; grapes planted since Roman times.
Côte de Nuits Village AOCs
Standard grapes unless noted: White [P or S]: Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc; Rosé/Gris [S]: Pinot Gris; Red [P]: Pinot Noir
Styles: Dry White, Rosé, Red
Known for delicate, fruity rosé (from Pinot Gris and/or Pinot Noir). Novel rosé idea post-phylloxera helped revive local industry. 100% Pinot Gris Bourgogne or Marsannay Rosé is possible but uncommon.
Styles: Dry White, Red
Mostly red. Until 17th century, wines were more highly regarded than Gevrey's. Protected from hail by forested windbreak.
Style: Red
26 Premiers Crus, 9 associated Grands Crus. Largest village appellation in Côte d'Or with most Grands Crus. Chambertin was Napoléon's favorite wine — village added vineyard name in 1847.
Styles: Dry White, Red
20 Premiers Crus, 5 associated Grands Crus (1 shared). Aligoté permitted in climat Monts Luisants. Modern Pinot Noir clones (113, 114, 115, 667, 777, 778) developed from Clos de la Roche vineyard.
Style: Red
24 Premiers Crus, 2 associated Grands Crus. Produces Côte de Nuits' most delicate wines — described as "silk and lace."
Styles: Dry White, Red
4 Premiers Crus, 1 Grand Cru. Smallest wine commune in Côte d'Or. 3/4 of production from Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru (only Grand Cru at bottom of slope). Château du Clos de Vougeot is home to La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin.
Style: Red
14 Premiers Crus, 8 associated Grands Crus. Called "the Pearl of the Côte" by Allen Meadows. Wines combine intensity of flavor with refinement — "an iron fist in a velvet glove."
Styles: Dry White, Red
41 Premiers Crus (no Grands Crus — many consider Premier Cru Saint-Georges Grand Cru-worthy). Second-largest commune in Côte de Nuits. 45% of production is Premier Cru level. Hub for wine shippers, brokers, négociants, cooperages, crémant producers.
Styles: Dry White, Red
Shared by 5 villages: Fixin and Brochon (north), Premeaux, Comblanchien, Corgoloin (south). Style varies from chalky/bracing (north) to soft/spicy (south).
Côte de Beaune Village AOCs
Standard grapes unless noted: White [P or S]: Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc; Rosé/Gris [S]: Pinot Gris; Red [P]: Pinot Noir
Three communes share the hill of Corton and its Grand Crus. Aloxe-Corton: 73% of commune belongs to Grand Cru Corton and Corton-Charlemagne. Pernand-Vergelesses: Southwest slope of Corton hill — often overlooked, excellent value.
Styles: Dry White, Red
Largest commercial center — home to Hospices de Beaune and major négociants (Jadot, Latour, Drouhin, Bouchard). Cellars lie under city streets. 75% of production is Premier Cru. Most vineyards on large, contiguous, southeast-facing slope.
Bisected by Rhoin River — two different wine styles. West side (Mont Battois): structured, generous. East side (Bois de Noël): finer, more elegant. Mostly red; 12 of the Premiers Crus on east side.
High concentration of clay and active limestone — unique in Côte de Beaune but similar to Côte de Nuits dynamics. Powerful, robust Pinot Noir.
Soft, supple mouthfeel — most ancient descriptions of any Bourgogne wine. In 1300s, became most famous Bourgogne wine through Knights of Malta. Ironically, reputation built when vineyards were planted to Pinot Gris! 60% ranked Premier Cru.
Largest wine-producing village in Côte d'Or (120+ producers). 96.5% white; over 1/4 is Premier Cru. Lies in center of a broad coomb. Matt Kramer: "If gold were a flavor, it would taste like Meursault."
17 Premiers Crus. Possesses majority of Montrachet hill. More white wine Grands Crus than any other village. Less than 2.5 ac / 1 ha of Pinot Noir. Water table too high for cellars!
55 Premiers Crus. Reds historically important (compared to Nuits-Saint-Georges), but white fame led to Chardonnay expansion in 20th century. Now 2/3 white, 1/3 red.
Côte Chalonnaise Village AOCs
Style: Dry White | Grape: Aligoté [P]
100% Aligoté. Secluded valley with cool expositions and shallow soils well-suited to Aligoté. Many north-facing slopes.
23 Premiers Crus. Produces more Crémant de Bourgogne than still red and white combined! First méthode traditionnelle in Bourgogne made here in 1822. Still wine: 2/3 white, 1/3 red.
Named for Roman god of trade — largest town in Côte Chalonnaise with highest production. Most is red. Even with 32 Premiers Crus, 75% is village level. Plentiful, competitively priced, robust.
Pre-phylloxera, among most sought-after Bourgogne wines due to royal patronage. Slow recovery but has regained prior dynamism. Predominantly red.
Style: Dry White only | Grape: Chardonnay [P]
Although Pinot Noir and Gamay were extensively planted until 1950s, now white only. 65% carried out by Cave des Vignerons de Buxy (one of first co-ops to pay for quality vs. quantity).
Mâconnais Village AOCs
Style: Dry White | Grape: Chardonnay [P]
Flagship of Mâconnais. Lies in topographical bowl rimmed by three bioherms (Rock of Solutré, Rock of Vergisson, Mont de Pouilly). Soils similar to Côte d'Or. Powerful, often oaked wines. Premiers Crus = 24% of appellation.
Neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé, capitalizing on "Pouilly" name. ~80% made at Vinzelles co-operative.
Style: Dry White | Grape: Chardonnay [P]
Once part of Beaujolais, sold as Beaujolais Blanc. Eight communes including Saint-Vérand (note spelling). Two non-contiguous growing areas separated by Pouilly-Fuissé.
Style: Dry White, Semi-Sweet White | Grape: Chardonnay [P]
Newest Mâconnais AOC. 9 mi / 14.5 km north of Mâcon. Formed from two Mâcon-Villages communes. Small amount of late-harvest, semi-sweet wine: demi-sec (0.4–0.8% RS / 4–8 g/l) or Levrouté (0.8–1.8% RS / 8–18 g/l).
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